So here is what the finished, installed firewall looks like on the power pod. Needed to notch the foam board a bit to make room for the blind nuts, otherwise the firewall wouldn’t lay flat against the foam board.
Finally went out to fly the FT Old Speedster for the first time. Things didn’t go well. When I went to taxi around it veered left when I gave it throttle. Then when I took off it kept wanting to climb even with several clicks of down elevator trim. The Speedster doesn’t have any down or right trim built into the motor mount. Every balsa model that I have ever built had both down and right trim. Lacking any other insights I decided to do that with the Speedster. I made a new firewall with a larger hole to pass the motor cables through. And I am going to use the X-mount and blind nuts with socket head cap screws. 4-40. To see the solution that I plan to use for down & right thrust, see a previous post here.
The Flite Test Simple Scout comes with dummy engines; a nice detail. Thought it might be a good idea to paint them to set them off a bit from the brown fuselage and black cowl. So I went with aluminum Rustoleum. The skewers that come with the kit can be used to hold the engine parts while you are painting. I used sandbags to hold the skewers in place on the table. And then the skewers can be used again to guide the parts to the exact right place on the fuselage when you hot glue them. The one picture shows the parts painted black. Bad idea. It blends in with the cowl.
After I received the new Power Pack B from Flite Test I went to install the motor on the firewall. I was looking for the 2.5 mm socket head cap screws that I am accustomed to. Looks like they have been replaced with 2mm button head screws. No big deal you say. Here is the problem. The 2.5 mm ball driver that I use has a much larger handle than the 2 mm. So it’s easy to put a lot of force on the screws to make the motor / firewall connections nice and tight. The 2 mm ball driver has a much smaller handle, so it makes it hard to use a lot of force. One option is to use the X mount that comes with the motors. Next motor that I mount will be held on with the X mount, socket head cap screws, and blind nuts on the back side of the firewall.
I recently ordered a Power Pack B from Flite Test for one of my Simple Scouts. In the past the Power Packs that I received came in a resealable, large plastic bag. This time I opened the box to find a surprise. The Power Pack B came in a really nice plastic reusable box with latches to hold it closed. Great for spare parts, tools, or whatever. What a nice upgrade1 Thanks Flite Test!
I needed to build a couple of the short power pods. There is a small oval hole just behind the firewall. My thought is that it is there in case you want to pass wires through to connect to the battery. Found a neat way to make the hole. Logan FoamWerks makes several products for cutting foam board. I used the medium sized hole cutter. Worked out really nice. Buy at Amazon.
The winner of the 2014 SEFF Southeast Electric Flight Festival Best New Aircraft is a model called the Giant Norman. It is a laser cut balsa and plywood traditional build with Monokote type covering and an 84″ wingspan and 12-18 lbs weight. The model was very popular at the time but the designer had many requests for a smaller version, which is how the Normal Norman was born. This one has a 49″ wingspan and is made from EPP foam. Normal is a 3 channel model but there is now a 4 channel version available called the Nifty Norman. This one appears to be a good candidate for a foam board scratch build project. The Giant Norman kit (balsa & plywood) and both the Normal Norman and Nifty Norman (EPP) kits are available at: http://lainesplanes.com/
I was having a hard time getting the turtle deck centered on the FT Simple Scout. Came up with this idea using some foam board scraps and painter’s low tack tape. Mark the centerlines, then it is easy to align the separate turtle deck sections while gluing. And the painter’s tape comes off easily without damaging the poster board.
An easy way to keep the front and back of the turtle deck formers square while gluing is to simply use two strips of foam board to align the former.
At the point where I am finishing the fuselage. Without the foam board top rear of the fuselage, the back end of the turtle deck has no support. You might add a cross member right where the turtle deck ends. And on the bottom of the fuselage you might cut the foam board to include the tail skid and end at the last cross member.