Here is a windscreen that I created in a drawing program. Adds a little interest to your Old Speedster or other open cockpit model. Download it, glue it to a piece of poster board, then cut, bend and install. The tabs are gluing tabs.
It’s difficult to neatly cut bamboo barbecue skewers. Seems like there are always strands hanging out or the tool that you are using cuts and crushes. This Fiskars tool is something we use in the garden and, as it turns out, it works great for cutting bamboo skewers; nice, clean cuts. You can probably pick one up at your local hardware.
Up until I started building foam board planes I hadn’t used hot glue guns. Now I am getting the hang of it. The mini glue guns are inexpensive, usually under $10 and they often come with several glue sticks. So I am trying out different brands to see the pros and cons. When I get that figured out, I’ll do a post to share what I discovered.
Not quite finished but close enough to take pictures. Still need to install the landing gear and wheel pants. Also set the control surface throw, balance, and do the range check.
While assembling the wheel pants on the FT Old Speedster I realized that the sides were a bit closer together at the front. So the poster board would not fit properly. A small one inch “L” shaped spacer will keep the two sides the correct distance apart at the front while you glue the poster board on. I decided to go with black instead of white poster board. Don’t glue the spacer in and be sure to remove it when the gluing is complete.
The under camber 50% score cuts on the FliteTest Old Speedster and the Old Fogey wings need to be opened up a bit before gluing. One way to open the score cut up is to use sandpaper. To get a really even sanding job I use this sanding sled. It is easy to make from scraps. Use pairs of triangles for added strength. The box channels on each side help to prevent warping, especially if you use spray adhesive, like 3M, to adhere the sandpaper to the foam board. It works on both the wing center section and the wingtips. Sand both edges, front and back.
Seems like every time I hot glue something then try to find a scrap piece of foam board to wipe off the excess glue, there are none. Decided to solve that problem by making a couple dozen one inch squares to have handy.
One of the many great ideas on one of the Flite Test Speed Building tips page. A guy named Denver appeared in one of the videos. He was attending a Flite Fest and showed Josh an idea for using pop rivets as wheel bushings. In the video Josh used a pair of pliers to separate the rivet. I came up with this alternative. In my case I was using large (4″) wheels and the standard axle was too small. So I put a couple of these in each wheel to make a perfect fit.
You need a few pieces of scrap wood, some rivets, and a hammer. The rivets I bought were 3/16″ diameter, 1/4″ and 1/2″ length. Use the size that fits your wheels. Drill a hole in the scrap wood 7/32″ all the way through. Put the rivet in the hole, tap it with the hammer to separate it, and you have one bushing. Depending on which wheel you are using, you may need to open up the axle hole to 3/16″. Repeat as needed.
Batteries: Most transmitters have batteries that need to be charged, usually the day before you go flying. But if you forget, then no flying. The Spektrum DX6 takes AA batteries. With AA batteries, no charging. You are always ready to fly as long as you have some AA batteries.
Timer: You set the timer to count down so that it beeps before your batteries run down all the way. You hear warning beeps as your time gets shorter. But if the timer keeps running when you are at low or no throttle, you get less flying time even though you are using much less battery life. So with the DX6 you can set the timer to cut off when you go to low or no throttle. That extends your flying time. And every time the throttle goes below the threshold that you set, you get a beep to let you know that you are extending your flight. Two great features.
While building a large sanding block I needed to glue together pairs of triangles. Came up with this jig for insuring that the parts stay aligned. The base is just a single piece of foam board. The edge, or fence on two sides, is a double piece of foam board with a little overlap. That is glued to the base. So, put glue on one triangle then put the other triangle on top of the first. Slide them around a bit to spread the glue out. Temporarily push the triangles into the fence until alignment takes place. Then remove the parts to avoid gluing them to the jig permanently. Hold them together until you are certain that the glue is set, maybe 30-45 seconds.