Nearing completion of the powerpod for the Duck. In the pictures below you will see the Logan Hole Cutter that I used to make a hole for the motor wires to pass through. The top view shows the 4˚ right thrust in the firewall. The battery is used for photo purposed to keep the pod from tipping forward. I used blind nuts or t-nuts to help mount the motor. What you don’t see is the bottom of the pod side panels cut at an 8˚ angle to fit for better gluing on the wing. I used a Hot Wire Foam Factory Table to cut the angle. Worked really well. Next time I’ll take some pics.
Needed to make some Depron ribs for my Jupiter Duck. As mentioned in a previous video even with a brand new blade in my knife my cutting is not that good. I had luck while cutting the wing panels using a Hotwire so decided to try doing the ribs in a similar way. I did make lite ply ribs to guide the Hotwire. The ribs need to be sanded as smooth as possible along the edge where the Hotwire travels. When the wire gets stuck on even a sliver of wood it burns a little notch where ever it stops. I made a triple thick rib for the Duck to use as the midrib (root rib). More on that later. You can easily cut several separate ribs using this technique.
Working on a model called the Jupiter Duck. It’s a seaplane. The building material is 6mm Depron. Even with a brand new blade my cutting is not that good, so I thought of cutting with a hotwire. In this video I copied the plans, cut out the wing pattern, then glued it to a piece of posterboard. Then trimmed it to the plan outline. It worked really well and there was no sanding or touch up when I was done. Note: This is a 200% version of the original model which has a wingspan of 64 cm, or about 25″. So this version will have a wingspan of about 50″.
Club member and Safety Officer, Kim Kraft, has been doing some modeling with foam. He made this hotwire cutter from a coping saw and some other parts. It connects to a 12 volt source. One thing that he did that I liked was to add a spring to keep tension on the wire. Nice touch. He is working on a model that uses 1/2″ pink insulation foam. Looking forward to seeing that one.
Just started on my next building project. This one will be all Depron, a material that I never used before. So there will be a learning curve for me. When you find the plans on the Internet they may be in French or German. The designer is Thomas Buchwald. I have the Chrome browser on my Mac that has an option to translate web pages in another language. You may have a similar ability on your computer. The original design has about a 23″ wingspan, which is on the small side for me. So I went to Kinkos and had the plans blown up 200% which yields about a 46″ wingspan. Here are a few links to Jupiter Duck pages.
YouTube video – https://youtu.be/enZOPQGCpmQ
Occasionally you may need to do some sanding or cutting of foam board using power tools. Doing that will certainly create dust. You can use a shop vac for your various power tools, but they are loud, bulky, and not easily transported from garage to basement. So if you have a handheld vacuum and a few hose accessories, you can make a relatively quiet, very portable dust collector. I used a Ryobi unit but I suspect that any brand can be adapted. I bought an extension hose and it came with extra connectors to fit various dust port sizes. I needed to make an adapter from some foam board wrapped with tape to fit onto the brush accessory. The brush itself can be easily removed from the plastic housing. I have a 5″ disc sander and a small hobby table saw that I connect to the dust collector.
Foam board wheels are not very durable. The question is what to do about it. I came across some 1-3/4″ I.D. rubber O-rings recently and thought they might be useful to add some durability to the foam board wheels. The process begins with gluing the artwork to the foam board. There are places on the Internet where you can buy excellent art work for just a few dollars. Then cut the circles out. I used a Logan WA8001 FoamWerks Foamboard Circle Cutter available at Amazon. Glue the rubber O-rings to the wheel. Don’t forget to use the doublers behind the wheel for added strength. And you may find a Center Finder useful to find the exact place where the axle needs to go though. I bought the O-rings on ebay from Mr. O-Ring. Finally I used some rivet parts to act as a bushing inside the wheel. See my Rivets post HERE. The O-ring is 1/4″ thick so the finished wheel is 2″ diameter. Probably suitable for a smaller model such as the FT Minis. I am looking for larger O-rings or something similar. I fly from a grass field and have found that something more like a 3″ diameter wheel will allow me to taxi and get off the ground.
While I was working on the FT Speedster I was amazed to see the skewer fall out on the floor! This is the skewer that holds the back end of the power pod in place. Lucky I wasn’t flying. A couple of short pieces of tubing will hold it in place.
Finally went out to fly the FT Old Speedster for the first time. Things didn’t go well. When I went to taxi around it veered left when I gave it throttle. Then when I took off it kept wanting to climb even with several clicks of down elevator trim. The Speedster doesn’t have any down or right trim built into the motor mount. Every balsa model that I have ever built had both down and right trim. Lacking any other insights I decided to do that with the Speedster. I made a new firewall with a larger hole to pass the motor cables through. And I am going to use the X-mount and blind nuts with socket head cap screws. 4-40. To see the solution that I plan to use for down & right thrust, see a previous post here.
The Flite Test Simple Scout comes with dummy engines; a nice detail. Thought it might be a good idea to paint them to set them off a bit from the brown fuselage and black cowl. So I went with aluminum Rustoleum. The skewers that come with the kit can be used to hold the engine parts while you are painting. I used sandbags to hold the skewers in place on the table. And then the skewers can be used again to guide the parts to the exact right place on the fuselage when you hot glue them. The one picture shows the parts painted black. Bad idea. It blends in with the cowl.