I needed to build a couple of the short power pods. There is a small oval hole just behind the firewall. My thought is that it is there in case you want to pass wires through to connect to the battery. Found a neat way to make the hole. Logan FoamWerks makes several products for cutting foam board. I used the medium sized hole cutter. Worked out really nice. Buy at Amazon.
The FT Servo Tester looked like a good idea when I bought it over a year ago. The FT youtube video shows exactly how to use it. The tester has been sitting on my bench waiting to be used. So today I went to use it and discovered that the tester that I purchased is not quite the same as the one in the video. No big deal. The pics below show how to use this model.
Several of the FT foam board designs use packing tape over the dihedral joint. The FT build videos show a tape dispenser that makes the process much easier than using the rolls of tape that you buy. This dispenser is weighted so you can tear a piece off with one hand. Here is a link to one that I bought on Amazon.
In this post I used a small, hobby table saw to cut the 45° bevel in the horizontal stabilizer. I left the stab in the surrounding foam board to maintain a line parallel to the saw blade, but removed the bottom few inches to adjust the saw cut.
The table saw is small so I needed to extend the fence to accommodate the the foam board that extended far beyond the table. To do that I taped a couple of yardsticks together then hot glued them to the table saw fence.
After the bevel has been cut I find it easiest to apply the tape hinge while the entire horizontal stabilizer / elevator assembly is pinned down.
To get the tape hinge centered I put a couple of pins toward the end of the stab as guides. The tape is 3/4″ wide so I put the pins in 3/8″ from the hinge line. Works great.
After you remove the fuselage sides from the building board the next step is to glue in the cross members. An earlier post showed how to accurately cut the cross members using a guide. Next step will be to glue the cross members in. If the wood was larger than 3/16″ we might use building pins to hold the parts together while they dry, but with small wood sizes you run the risk of splitting the wood. So instead I use tape.
If you are building foam board models sooner or later you will need to cut some bbq skewers. The problem is getting a nice, clean cut. I’ve tried scissors, side cutters, and xacto saws. None work that well. Seems like they all leave strands of bamboo sticking out. But I came across these Fiskars in the garage and tried them out. Nice, clean cuts; no problem.
If you have one of those nice soldering stands with the magnifying glass and alligator clips, but can’t find it, here is a work around. Take a couple clothespins and hot glue them to something heavy, like a paving brick.
When building foam board models you can use pins and tape and tape dispensers and glue guns to hold things down while you work on them. But you may want to make a few sand bags. They will come in handy. I use Ziploc sandwich type bags, one inside the other. You can buy sand box sand at places like Home Depot.
If you build foam board models from balsa model plans, occasionally you need to modify the drawings; add doublers, change the LG mount, etc. With a few drawing or drafting tools it is easy to do. I use the cutting mat board along with a T-square and 45˚ triangle to add details to plans before cutting them out to make templates. These will come in handy for the FT Simple Scout project.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I am not good and cutting the bevel in control surfaces free hand. So I use a table saw. I have another post coming soon to further explain that process. And then I use Kraft tape as the hinge. The problem comes when you try to put the tape on the two parts properly centered. A classic case of needing three hands. To solve the problem I just use balsa pins to hold the two parts together while I apply the tape. Works great.