Seems like every time I hot glue something then try to find a scrap piece of foam board to wipe off the excess glue, there are none. Decided to solve that problem by making a couple dozen one inch squares to have handy.
One of the many great ideas on the FliteTest YouTube Channel. A guy named Denver appeared in one of the videos. He was attending a Flite Fest and showed Josh an idea for using pop rivets as wheel bushings. In the video Josh used a pair of pliers to separate the rivet. I came up with this alternative. In my case I was using large (4″) wheels and the standard axle was too small. So I put a couple of these in each wheel to make a perfect fit.
You need a few pieces of scrap wood, some rivets, and a hammer. The rivets I bought were 3/16″ diameter, 1/4″ and 1/2″ length. Use the size that fits your wheels. Drill a hole in the scrap wood 7/32″ all the way through. Put the rivet in the hole, tap it with the hammer to separate it, and you have one bushing. Depending on which wheel you are using, you may need to open up the axle hole to 3/16″. Repeat as needed.
Batteries: Most transmitters have batteries that need to be charged, usually the day before you go flying. But if you forget, then no flying. The Spektrum DX6 takes AA batteries. With AA batteries, no charging. You are always ready to fly as long as you have some AA batteries.
Timer: You set the timer to count down so that it beeps before your batteries run down all the way. You hear warning beeps as your time gets shorter. But if the timer keeps running when you are at low or no throttle, you get less flying time even though you are using much less battery life. So with the DX6 you can set the timer to cut off when you go to low or no throttle. That extends your flying time. And every time the throttle goes below the threshold that you set, you get a beep to let you know that you are extending your flight. Two great features.
While building a large sanding block I needed to glue together pairs of triangles. Came up with this jig for insuring that the parts stay aligned. The base is just a single piece of foam board. The edge, or fence on two sides, is a double piece of foam board with a little overlap. That is glued to the base. So, put glue on one triangle then put the other triangle on top of the first. Slide them around a bit to spread the glue out. Temporarily push the triangles into the fence until alignment takes place. Then remove the parts to avoid gluing them to the jig permanently. Hold them together until you are certain that the glue is set, maybe 30-45 seconds.
Occasionally the slots or servo openings on your foam board models need to be made a bit larger. And it is true for scratch built models or kits. This tool is handy for cleaning up or enlarging those holes. The paint stirring stick can usually be had for free at your local hardware. You may need to trim it a small amount. While you are there pick up a package of self stick sand paper. Use a finer grit, say 150 or 200.
My first FliteTest build is an Old Speedster. I bought the speed build kit. The top half of the fuselage is white poster board. Decided that I would prefer black, so I traced the white parts from the kit onto black poster board. Simple enough. The only problem was making 1/8″ diameter holes to slip over the bamboo skewers sticking out of the front where the powerpod slips on. Found these Fiskars 1/8″ single hole punch online at both Amazon and eBay. Made for a neat build.
Wanted to add a tail wheel to my Old Speedster. Most of the solutions that I came up with were on the heavy side. This one is not. Here is one way to do it. The thin plastic tubing is about 1 1/2″ long. A better solution might be to have the tail wheel supported at the fuselage to take the weight off of the rudder. Maybe version #2.