Building a wing for the FT Simple Storch. At one point you need to add a trailing edge spacer made from foam board. Wanted to get the long thin strip glued flush to the edge, so I made a gluing fence. The idea is to pin down the fence, then the wing touching it. I use balsa modeling pins. When you put the glue on the spacer strip you just need to push it up against the fence, then press down until the hot glue sets. These fences some in handy for lining things up during construction.
Using the Aldi Workzone glue gun the other day. I left it plugged in while I cut some foam board. Maybe about 30 minutes. Then when I went to use it I found that the glue stick had melted in the open feed area and it jammed the trigger; wouldn’t feed. Ended up taking an X-acto knife to cut the clog away. So if I plan on not using that gun for awhile, unplug to avoid this.
The landing gear on the Old Speedster is held on with one rubber band. When I assembled my Speedster and installed a battery the landing gear was sagging. Check the first picture. I tried adding a second rubber band but the skewers were beginning to bend and the model was still sagging, so I decided to see if I could come up with something that would work better for me. It involved a foam board landing gear doubler with some bamboo skewers. The doubler gets hot glued inside the fuselage above the original landing gear mount point. The 1/2″ round holes were made with a FoamWerks Drill. It worked great.
Several years ago I bought my first Multiplex FunCub. One distinguishing feature is the tundra tires. Not just for looks, they help get through thick grass. And so since then I have been putting large wheels on all of my R/C model airplanes. The tires shown in the pictures below are the ones that come with the FunCub. Yes, you can still buy them.
Years ago we used wheel collars to keep the wheels on the axles. Here is another option. Use #4 flat washers and small silicone fuel tubing. Use this sequence. Put the wheel on the axle, then the washer, then squeeze on the fuel tubing before you cut it. If you cut a small piece and then try to squeeze it on, it will be difficult. Cut the tubing after it is in place on the axle.
The club that I belong to has a grass flying field. While it is cut once a week, if you go flying the day before grass cutting day, the grass can be thick; great for nose overs on takeoff. So for a long time I have been putting larger than normal wheels on my models. It all started years ago when I bought my first Multiplex FunCub, which came with Tundra Tires. Never have a problem flying off grass no matter how thick or deep with those wheels. So I continue to use larger wheels even on my foam board planes. When I take the Speedster in to a club meeting for Show & Tell, it will have the wheel pants option. But when I go to the field flying it will have the larger wheels.
One of my friends looked at a picture of my FT Speedster. First thing he said was, “Where’s the pilot?”. Good question. I decided to come up with one. Years ago I built an old time Sig kit called the Demoiselle. It came with a profile pilot. You can still buy just the pilot from Sig, but i decided to go another way. Did a Google search for pictures of vintage pilot with leather helmet and goggles. Came up with one that looked pretty good, then downloaded the file. I opened the pilot picture in a photo app that I have on my computer and applied a hatch filter. Then printed it out. Then drew in a mustache and cigarette. Then scanned the drawing and sized it down 50%, which seemed to be about the right size. In order for this to work properly you need a left side and a right side. The Preview app on my Mac allowed me to print, flip, and print. Then cut the figures out and glue them both to either side of a 3″x 5″ index card and cut it out. The pilot figure has a tab behind his head. That fits into a vertical slot that I cut in the turtle deck just behind the pilot.
This one comes from the Flite Test web site. If you build models from foam board eventually you will need to do a 50% score cut. A score cut will allow you to make a cut, then fold the foam board back on itself. You don’t want to cut all the way through. The tip from Flite Test is to take your cutting tool and round off the tip. Use whatever method you prefer. A couple choices are, a brick, sandpaper, or a file.
While assembling the wheel pants on the FT Old Speedster I realized that the sides were a bit closer together at the front. So the poster board would not fit properly. A small one inch “L” shaped spacer will keep the two sides the correct distance apart at the front while you glue the poster board on. I decided to go with black instead of white poster board. Don’t glue the spacer in and be sure to remove it when the gluing is complete.