I made an easel from some PVC pipe. Works good for holding flat pieces like wings and control surfaces while painting. Used it to hold the wing on my FT Simple Scout while painting a scallop on the leading edge. One more thing, the FT brown foam board is water resistant, but the poster board turtle decks are not as far as I know. So it makes sense to paint them as well either with color or clear coat. Use some double sided tape to hold them to the cardboard while painting.
It could be that you want to add down thrust, right thrust, or both to a motor mount. I happen to have a 10″ disc sander that makes the job easy. Set the table for 3° down and the miter to 3° right. Sand off just enough from the front of the power pod, then glue the firewall in place. Of course you can make these measurements to suit your needs. Just recently bought a 5″ disc sander from Menards and I plan see if the smaller sander will allow me to do the same.
At a recent club event a friend was telling me about a fellow club member who was flying his model when suddenly the battery came loose and was just dangling from behind the motor. Something to avoid. My friends Bob and Ed were going flying and invited me along. My batteries were all charged but I was wondering if I have the velcro strap to keep the battery secure. Nope. So here is what I did to fix it. Had a few velcro straps from Flite Test, so I pulled out the power pod from the Old Speedster and cut a couple of holes for the strap to go through. Then replaced the power pod.
Here is something interesting. Spektrum is now offering a receiver that does not need an external antenna! Remarkable. Just ordered one for the FT Simple Scout.
In this post I used a small, hobby table saw to cut the 45° bevel in the horizontal stabilizer. I left the stab in the surrounding foam board to maintain a line parallel to the saw blade, but removed the bottom few inches to adjust the saw cut.
The table saw is small so I needed to extend the fence to accommodate the the foam board that extended far beyond the table. To do that I taped a couple of yardsticks together then hot glued them to the table saw fence.
After the bevel has been cut I find it easiest to apply the tape hinge while the entire horizontal stabilizer / elevator assembly is pinned down.
To get the tape hinge centered I put a couple of pins toward the end of the stab as guides. The tape is 3/4″ wide so I put the pins in 3/8″ from the hinge line. Works great.
i had a question about tracing lines from the stab slots onto the balsa below. Here is a step by step. I used a small hobby table saw to cut the balsa. And then a small 5″ disc sander to clean up the edges. An X-ACTO saw and some sandpaper will do just as well.
If you are building the FT Simple Scout with the balsa stick rear fuselage, you may find that after gluing in the cross members the stabilizer tabs on the fuselage are slightly off from the stabilizer slots. One way to correct this is to make a spacer from balsa for a better fit. Could be a good idea to have the spacer in place before you glue in the last cross member. It might work with foam board. instead of balsa.
Just a couple of details about building with balsa sticks. Longerons are the long, weight bearing elements. The cross member supports add to the strength of the structure and also make assembly easier. The 3/16″ balsa tab fits into the horizontal stabilizer. If you view the plans for the Flitetest Simple Scout you can see where the balsa tab replaces the tab from the foam board fuselage side.
The bottom of the fuselage on the Simple Scout runs at an angle to the tail. So when cutting the balsa sticks the bottom needs to be cut at the same angle. The top of the stick is square, so no need to cut an angle. I made this cutting guide from a couple pieces of scrap foam board and one piece of 3/16″x3/16″ balsa stick. Just make your mark, then cut or sand the stick and glue it in place. Works really well to give you nice tight joints.
First I printed out a set of plans for the Flite Test Simple Scout. After that I drew some guide lines on the plans for the balsa sticks that I am going to add to the rear of the fuselage. Then I took the Flite Test Simple Scout fuselage and cut the rear off. Next step was to pin down the front of the fuselage to the plans and add the sticks to the rear. The idea here is to give the Scout a more vintage look.