Just a short video to show the action of the external pushrods on the FT Simple Scout.
Things are beginning to come together on the Scouts. I am happy with the way that the tail feathers turned out. After I glue #2 together the servos will come next. The servos on #2 will be on the inside of the fuse as designed. On #1 I did not make slots for the elevator and rudder pushrods. Thought that I could weave them through the openings between the balsa sticks. Nope. So the plan is to mount the servos on the outside of the fuselage. We’ll see how that goes.
After finishing the tail feathers on FT Simple Scout #2 I realized that #1 could use a bit more paint. But the assembly was already glued together. That means that I needed to mask off parts. Decided to paint the rudder on #1 black as a contrast to #2. Next time I will think ahead and paint BEFORE assembly. Just used plain old printer paper with some paint masking tape from the hardware.
At a recent club event a friend was telling me about a fellow club member who was flying his model when suddenly the battery came loose and was just dangling from behind the motor. Something to avoid. My friends Bob and Ed were going flying and invited me along. My batteries were all charged but I was wondering if I have the velcro strap to keep the battery secure. Nope. So here is what I did to fix it. Had a few velcro straps from Flite Test, so I pulled out the power pod from the Old Speedster and cut a couple of holes for the strap to go through. Then replaced the power pod.
Already admitted that I am not good at free hand cutting the bevels on control surfaces. So instead I have been cutting off part of the foam board and replacing it with balsa. In this case I took a 3/16″x3/8″ strip and cut a 45° bevel on the table saw. So as shown below, the aileron is separate from the wing. Vertical and horizontal stabilizers work the same way. Then I use brown kraft tape to attach the pieces to one another for the control surface hinge.
In this post I used a small, hobby table saw to cut the 45° bevel in the horizontal stabilizer. I left the stab in the surrounding foam board to maintain a line parallel to the saw blade, but removed the bottom few inches to adjust the saw cut.
The table saw is small so I needed to extend the fence to accommodate the the foam board that extended far beyond the table. To do that I taped a couple of yardsticks together then hot glued them to the table saw fence.
After the bevel has been cut I find it easiest to apply the tape hinge while the entire horizontal stabilizer / elevator assembly is pinned down.
To get the tape hinge centered I put a couple of pins toward the end of the stab as guides. The tape is 3/4″ wide so I put the pins in 3/8″ from the hinge line. Works great.
After you remove the fuselage sides from the building board the next step is to glue in the cross members. An earlier post showed how to accurately cut the cross members using a guide. Next step will be to glue the cross members in. If the wood was larger than 3/16″ we might use building pins to hold the parts together while they dry, but with small wood sizes you run the risk of splitting the wood. So instead I use tape.
i had a question about tracing lines from the stab slots onto the balsa below. Here is a step by step. I used a small hobby table saw to cut the balsa. And then a small 5″ disc sander to clean up the edges. An X-ACTO saw and some sandpaper will do just as well.
If you are building the FT Simple Scout with the balsa stick rear fuselage, you may find that after gluing in the cross members the stabilizer tabs on the fuselage are slightly off from the stabilizer slots. One way to correct this is to make a spacer from balsa for a better fit. Could be a good idea to have the spacer in place before you glue in the last cross member. It might work with foam board. instead of balsa.