The Scout looked unfinished without a pilot figure. So I came up with a solution similar to one I used before with the FT Old Speedster. Check that post out HERE. There is a hole in the foam board that is the top of the fuselage in the cockpit. I used a couple of pieces of foam board to make a base, then cut a slot for the profile pilot head to fit in. You may or may not want to glue the pilot in permanently.
My FT Simple Scout #1 is finished. I took it out to the field for a photo shoot. Didn’t do a maiden yet. Our October club meeting is coming up next week so I wanted to make sure it was in one piece for the Show & Tell.
The main point of this post is to show an optional way to mount motors that allows you to adjust down and right thrust. This may be needed to improve flight characteristics of some models. In this example I made a new firewall from aircraft plywood.
These are two ways to mount the motor on the firewall. The FT motors come with an X-Mount that can be set vertical or diagonal. The motors come with tiny wood screws and the firewalls have pre-drilled holes for the wood screws. Over time and with vibration wood screws tend to loosen up and back out resulting in a wobbly motor. For me a better way to mount the motor is to set the X-Mount on a diagonal. You’ll need to drill new holes, use blind nuts (also called T-nuts) and socket head cap screws.
The diagonal mount can be used to provide just down thrust, just right thrust, or both down and right thrust. It is a bit easier than using the vertical mount.
Looking from the front, if you put washers under the top of the mount, you get down thrust. If you put washers under the right side of the mount, you get right thrust. And if you put two washers under the upper right corner and one washer each under the upper left corner and lower right corner, you get both down and right thrust. No washers under the lower left corner. If you decided to make a firewall for the diagonal mount, you will need to relocate the hole that the motor wiring goes through. Click HERE to see what the blind nuts look like from behind the fire wall.
While I was working on the FT Speedster I was amazed to see the skewer fall out on the floor! This is the skewer that holds the back end of the power pod in place. Lucky I wasn’t flying. A couple of short pieces of tubing will hold it in place.
Here is a link to some (99) photos from this year’s Flite Fest. https://www.flickr.com/photos/safety_fast/albums/72157709881801187
So here is what the finished, installed firewall looks like on the power pod. Needed to notch the foam board a bit to make room for the blind nuts, otherwise the firewall wouldn’t lay flat against the foam board.
Finally went out to fly the FT Old Speedster for the first time. Things didn’t go well. When I went to taxi around it veered left when I gave it throttle. Then when I took off it kept wanting to climb even with several clicks of down elevator trim. The Speedster doesn’t have any down or right trim built into the motor mount. Every balsa model that I have ever built had both down and right trim. Lacking any other insights I decided to do that with the Speedster. I made a new firewall with a larger hole to pass the motor cables through. And I am going to use the X-mount and blind nuts with socket head cap screws. 4-40. To see the solution that I plan to use for down & right thrust, see a previous post here.
The Flite Test Simple Scout comes with dummy engines; a nice detail. Thought it might be a good idea to paint them to set them off a bit from the brown fuselage and black cowl. So I went with aluminum Rustoleum. The skewers that come with the kit can be used to hold the engine parts while you are painting. I used sandbags to hold the skewers in place on the table. And then the skewers can be used again to guide the parts to the exact right place on the fuselage when you hot glue them. The one picture shows the parts painted black. Bad idea. It blends in with the cowl.
After I received the new Power Pack B from Flite Test I went to install the motor on the firewall. I was looking for the 2.5 mm socket head cap screws that I am accustomed to. Looks like they have been replaced with 2mm button head screws. No big deal you say. Here is the problem. The 2.5 mm ball driver that I use has a much larger handle than the 2 mm. So it’s easy to put a lot of force on the screws to make the motor / firewall connections nice and tight. The 2 mm ball driver has a much smaller handle, so it makes it hard to use a lot of force. One option is to use the X mount that comes with the motors. Next motor that I mount will be held on with the X mount, socket head cap screws, and blind nuts on the back side of the firewall.
I recently ordered a Power Pack B from Flite Test for one of my Simple Scouts. In the past the Power Packs that I received came in a resealable, large plastic bag. This time I opened the box to find a surprise. The Power Pack B came in a really nice plastic reusable box with latches to hold it closed. Great for spare parts, tools, or whatever. What a nice upgrade1 Thanks Flite Test!