The top panel of the Jupiter Duck powerpod needs to have a double bevel where the back part meets the wing. The sander table is set to 135˚ to do this. I marked the angle from the plans and just held the Depron at that angle. I used a Logan Hole Cutter to make a hole in the wing to allow the motor wires to pass through to the fuselage. Then I glued the powerpod and pinned it to the wing. I let it set overnight. Then I pinned the back end of the top panel to the powerpod. The Depron doesn’t flex very easily so I decided to glue it in two steps. First the part where it meets the wing dihedral. Let that dry overnight. Then glue the front part. I don’t have a picture of that yet. Going well so far. Started work on the horizontal and vertical stabilizers. Should have some pics in a few days.
The Jupiter Duck in it’s original design has a 25″ wingspan. I decided to double that to 50″. So the question came up about what motor / ESC combo to use. The wing without the power pod weighs just under 4 oz. So it’s going to be a light weight. The 200% Ducks that I found on the Internet did not have any information about power. So I decided to try a Park 400 motor. The recommendation is to use a 10-20 am ESC. The Park 400 comes with 3.5 mm bullet connectors while the 10 amp Eflite ESC comes with 2 mm connectors. Now what? As it turned out after a fair amount of internet snooping around I discovered 3.5 mm female to 2 mm male bullet adapters. Bought the last two on Amazon. Almost every 10-20 amp ESC that I found had 2 mm connectors. Just seems like the Park 400 should come with the same size connectors as most recommended ESCs. My 2nd grade teacher, Mrs. Schnitzer, used to say that solving problems make you smarter. They do. Embrace them.
Nearing completion of the powerpod for the Duck. In the pictures below you will see the Logan Hole Cutter that I used to make a hole for the motor wires to pass through. The top view shows the 4˚ right thrust in the firewall. The battery is used for photo purposed to keep the pod from tipping forward. I used blind nuts or t-nuts to help mount the motor. What you don’t see is the bottom of the pod side panels cut at an 8˚ angle to fit for better gluing on the wing. I used a Hot Wire Foam Factory Table to cut the angle. Worked really well. Next time I’ll take some pics.
Thinking ahead to a time when I may need to retrieve the Jupiter Duck from the pond. Love the Internet. I stumbled across this airboat made from Coroplast; simple, cheap. Looks like a fun build. Here is the link to the article on R/C Universe.
Needed to make some Depron ribs for my Jupiter Duck. As mentioned in a previous video even with a brand new blade in my knife my cutting is not that good. I had luck while cutting the wing panels using a Hotwire so decided to try doing the ribs in a similar way. I did make lite ply ribs to guide the Hotwire. The ribs need to be sanded as smooth as possible along the edge where the Hotwire travels. When the wire gets stuck on even a sliver of wood it burns a little notch where ever it stops. I made a triple thick rib for the Duck to use as the midrib (root rib). More on that later. You can easily cut several separate ribs using this technique.
Working on a model called the Jupiter Duck. It’s a seaplane. The building material is 6mm Depron. Even with a brand new blade my cutting is not that good, so I thought of cutting with a hotwire. In this video I copied the plans, cut out the wing pattern, then glued it to a piece of posterboard. Then trimmed it to the plan outline. It worked really well and there was no sanding or touch up when I was done. Note: This is a 200% version of the original model which has a wingspan of 64 cm, or about 25″. So this version will have a wingspan of about 50″.
This one is a 4 channel version. Found some Williams Brothers Vintage Wheels on ebay to add a vintage feel. Still need to install the aileron servos, but other than that we are ready to go flying, weather permitting.
Just discovered a model called the Jupiter Duck. Free plans are available HERE for download. Went to Kinko’s and had a set of the plans blown up to 200%. Then I stumbled across this one. More on the Jupiter Duck in future posts. In the mean time watch this video. Slowest flying R/C model I have ever seen!
Finally got the internal servos and pushrods finished. Check the pics below. Included is a pic of the pushrod guide that I installed in the fuselage. I used this method instead of the one shown on the Flite Test build video. The method shown on the video with the foam board keepers bends the pushrods and puts tension on them. So the servos need to work more. This method takes some strain off of the servos.
This video shows how the combo of internal pushrods and the slot in the stick fuselage work. At first the slot seemed a bit on the long side, but it turned out to be just about right.