I was having a hard time getting the turtle deck centered on the FT Simple Scout. Came up with this idea using some foam board scraps and painter’s low tack tape. Mark the centerlines, then it is easy to align the separate turtle deck sections while gluing. And the painter’s tape comes off easily without damaging the poster board.
An easy way to keep the front and back of the turtle deck formers square while gluing is to simply use two strips of foam board to align the former.
At the point where I am finishing the fuselage. Without the foam board top rear of the fuselage, the back end of the turtle deck has no support. You might add a cross member right where the turtle deck ends. And on the bottom of the fuselage you might cut the foam board to include the tail skid and end at the last cross member.
When you are assembling the carbon fiber pushrods and the servo arms, you may find it helpful to clamp the control surfaces so that they are perfectly flat; no up or down and no left or right.
When I built the first FT Simple Scout with the balsa diagonals, I didn’t make slots for the pushrods. The foam board fuse has slots but I thought that I could somehow maneuver the pushrods through all the open spaces between the balsa sticks. I couldn’t find a way to do it. So instead i decided to mount the servos on the outside of the fuselage and use carbon fiber tubes as pushrods.
Make some short Z-bends for each end of the carbon fiber pushrods. Make sure the piano wire is a snug fit in the tubes. Then I used thick CA to fix the Z-bends into the tubes.
If you use a Dremel tool or power saw to cut the tubes you are liable to put some cf dust in the air. You don’t want to inhale that so I use a miter box and hand saw for minimum dust.
The cardboard packing in the servos from FT can be used as a template for cutting the hole in the fuselage. Just extend the opening on each end so that the entire servo with end tabs fits through.
This model is being built as a 3 channel. If you are building the 4 channel version you need to make sure that the servo has room with full aileron down deflection.
The way that the Scout is constructed there is a second layer of foam, the doubler, that you will need to cut through.
The servo arm is in the up position. This makes the line from the servo to the control surface close to parallel to the top of the fuse.
I put the hot glue inside through the bottom of the fuselage. Little bit of a tight fit to get the glue gun nozzle in, but it is doable.
Just a short video to show the action of the external pushrods on the FT Simple Scout.
Things are beginning to come together on the Scouts. I am happy with the way that the tail feathers turned out. After I glue #2 together the servos will come next. The servos on #2 will be on the inside of the fuse as designed. On #1 I did not make slots for the elevator and rudder pushrods. Thought that I could weave them through the openings between the balsa sticks. Nope. So the plan is to mount the servos on the outside of the fuselage. We’ll see how that goes.
After finishing the tail feathers on FT Simple Scout #2 I realized that #1 could use a bit more paint. But the assembly was already glued together. That means that I needed to mask off parts. Decided to paint the rudder on #1 black as a contrast to #2. Next time I will think ahead and paint BEFORE assembly. Just used plain old printer paper with some paint masking tape from the hardware.
At a recent club event a friend was telling me about a fellow club member who was flying his model when suddenly the battery came loose and was just dangling from behind the motor. Something to avoid. My friends Bob and Ed were going flying and invited me along. My batteries were all charged but I was wondering if I have the velcro strap to keep the battery secure. Nope. So here is what I did to fix it. Had a few velcro straps from Flite Test, so I pulled out the power pod from the Old Speedster and cut a couple of holes for the strap to go through. Then replaced the power pod.